To dine at Bell’s is to fall in love with the Santa Ynez Valley. The Michelin-starred French-inspired bistro sits on the dusty main street of Los Alamos, just off the 101 freeway, in the heart of California’s Central Coast wine country. Grapes stretch in every direction on the hillsides, rows of purple-tinged lettuces sprout at nearby farms, and sunsets paint the mountains pink as day slips into night.

Inside the restaurant, fine dining veterans Daisy and Gregory Ryan shed the restrictive hallmarks of French cuisine in favor of a constantly evolving menu, which is rooted in local agriculture interpreted through the French culinary canon. They’ve even coined their own term for it — Franch — which feels equally appropriate for their sense of hospitality. Daisy Ryan, donning a heavyweight canvas apron and a quiet sense of command, helms the kitchen while Gregory Ryan, frequently wearing a chore coat and a warm smile, is often the first sight as guests walk through the front door. The couple inhabit a laid-back California where they creatively update classic dishes without losing the heart.

With their hospitality group, Companion Hospitality — which includes Bar Le Côte, Priedite Barbecue, Bodega, and Na Na Thai spread across Los Alamos and nearby towns, alongside community food aid project Feed the Valley — the Ryans have laid deep foundations in the Santa Ynez Valley. Bell’s has grown out of the community it calls home, putting the spotlight back on the people — local farmers, the cooks in the kitchen, the servers on the floor — who make dining there so special.

Bell’s channels the innate comfort of a French farmhouse, with a dash of vintage rug collector. The front door opens directly into the main dining room, which is populated with sturdy wood tables set against a tile floor. The bar peers into the front of the kitchen (look up to spot a collection of hanging copper pots and a Karl Lagerfeld figurine watching over the room). Out back, groups (and their dogs) settle in on the expansive backyard. Keep an eye out for regulars and local purveyors, like local diver Stephanie Mutz of Sea Stephanie Fish, who share the bar at lunch or dinner.

Lunch at Bell’s brings a menu of bistro classics guided by California’s bounty of produce and the Ryans’ relationships with local purveyors. Briny Hope Ranch mussels from off the coast of Santa Barbara lie across sourdough bread, paired with a stack of starchy potato discs and bright slices of tangerine, while a well-seasoned steak tartare is crowned with an orange egg yolk, just waiting to be popped. For steak frites, a pat of herb-dotted maître d’ butter rests atop six ounces of beef, along with a tangle of golden brown French fries. Moules frites, which also utilizes Hope Ranch mussels, arrives in a cauldron with “moules” emblazoned on the side. The ever-evolving Bell’s Salad is built around whatever greens are best that day; late winter brought bitter greens topped with Fiscalini cheddar, avocado, pistachios, and nutritional yeast vinaigrette. End the meal with a dense slice of buttery gâteau Breton that’s just as good the next day should you take away leftovers.

Dinner is a more buttoned-up affair, without becoming stodgy. The menu opens with a delicate circular pile of crepes topped with creamy uni and a dollop of caviar, followed by sourdough bread made in-house, and a simple salad of Finley Farms lettuce.

The rest of the meal is a choose-your-own-adventure situation: Options may include duck confit, lamb tartare, a smoked trout croquette, or leeks barigoule for the next course. Mains could span a tender cobia rôti paired with roasted cabbage; chevre-stuffed cappelletti topped with herbaceous nasturtium; and a 5-ounce steak au poivre with fries, which is a constant on the menu. Dessert comes with a triad of options: a bright Meyer lemon tart dolloped with meringue; Mt Tam triple-cream cheese plated alongside prunes in brandy and galette Pérougienne; and chocolate mousse nestled in a steel chalice with black currant sorbet and chantilly. A separate kid’s menu is available day and night with a Parmesan-crusted grilled cheese, butter and cheese pasta, a small green salad, and more.

The menu at Bell’s changes nearly daily, save for a few dishes; updated menus are often posted day-of, but the constantly evolving nature is part of what makes the restaurant worth multiple return trips. Be sure to ask your server for a bottle (or a few glasses) of wine that would pair well with your selections.

Reservations open on the first of each month at 1 p.m. for the following two months. Lunch is served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; reservations are recommended, with limited walk-ins available. Prix fixe dinner is served from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m., and reservations are required. Booking well in advance is the best way to guarantee seats, although last-minute reservations do sometimes pop up. Lunch is served a la carte, while the prix fixe is $125 per person (a 20 percent service charge is added onto the bill for dinner and lunch, and additional gratuity is not required). Bell’s is open Thursday to Monday, and closed on Tuesday and Wednesday.

Bell’s is about 140 miles from Los Angeles, which amounts to a little over two hours in the car if traffic complies. Although San Francisco is a bit farther, the trip is still feasible (and worth it) as a weekend getaway. Expect the 280-mile trip to take at least four hours. If traveling from outside California, the easiest major airport to fly into is Los Angeles International Airport (LAX). Santa Barbara Airport, set only 50 miles from Bell’s, offers more limited daily flights but shaves off some time in the car.

If you’re coming from LA, be sure to stop by the Finley Farms honor stand, where produce picked that morning is available for purchase. Or take an extended break in Solvang, a Danish town with plenty of pastries, pretzels, brats, an excellent spice shop, and even an ostrich farm (be sure to feed the bad boy). And from May to early June, stop by Santa Barbara Blueberries for u-pick fruits.

A car is necessary to get to Los Alamos, although once in town, everything is within walking distance. Parking is plentiful, even on nights when all the restaurants along the main drag are full.

Alamo Motel, operated by hotel and hospitality group Shelter Social Club, is the best option in the heart of Los Alamos. The charming motel, updated with tasteful yee haw-meets-midcentury touches, sits right across the street from Bell’s. The room options include basic king-bed setups, pseudo-suites with full kitchens, and clawfoot-tub-appointed accommodations. Bar Alamo sits at the center of the property, with a menu of wine, beer, and snacks that can also be ordered directly to the room. During the day, guests play cornhole on the central patch of grass, while by night, warm flames dance around the fire pit, flanked by lounge chairs ideally positioned for enjoying an evening glass of red. Make sure to grab a complimentary palo santo stick at check-in and free coffee in the morning at the main office.

A handful of Airbnb options are also available in Los Alamos, along with the Skyview, which requires crossing the freeway to access, but does offer a pool.

What else to do, see, and eat around Los Alamos

Don’t let Los Alamos’s blink-and-you-miss-it size deceive you — it’s easy to fill a full 24 hours wandering around the main strip without having to get into your car. Fire up your appetite with a brisk walk to sun-drenched home goods store Campover before sitting down for lunch at Bell’s, Full of Life Flatbread, or Plenty on Bell. Check in to your hotel at 3 p.m. and take a brief break before heading back out for a wine tasting, or just a glass of wine at Bodega. Head back to Bell’s for dinner, before grabbing a nightcap at Bar Alamo, or just call it a day. The next morning, walk down to Bob’s Well Bread for fruit and granola-topped Greek yogurt, breakfast sandwiches on a buttery biscuit or English muffin, and strong cups of coffee. Be sure to grab a loaf and a few pastries to pick at on the drive out of town.

If you want to explore the expansive Santa Ynez Valley, head down the road to Los Olivos for Companion Hospitality’s European seafood tavern Bar Le Côte, or Santa Ynez’s streetside taco spot, Highway Tacos. Make the most of a trip to the Central Coast’s wine country by exploring the numerous tasting rooms in the area. In Los Alamos, try Lo-Fi Wines or a Tribute to Grace, or head to the neighboring Los Olivos for Stolpman Vineyards or Samsara Wine Co. Most tastings in the area cost $25 per person; advance reservations are highly recommended and sometimes required.