Munich often makes lists of the “most livable cities,” combining an innovative, international energy with a slower, greener, and, at times, quintessentially Bavarian lifestyle. The foothills of the Alps are just an hour away, the peaks visible from different points in town, and Munich has long been a powerhouse of music, theater, and art thanks to the influence of former monarchs and dukes.

All of those things also make Munich an excellent place to visit, especially if you’re ready to immerse yourself in the local way of life. Wander the grand boulevards, explore the parks, marvel at the Italianate architecture, and gawk at historic landmarks such as the National Theatre and Germany’s largest urban palace, home to a treasury full of old royal regalia.

But of course, you’re here to eat. The quickly evolving culinary scene includes everything from historic taverns serving roasted pork soaked in dark beer sauce to chic contemporary bistros serving modern small plates with butter from the Bavarian Forest. After three days in the city, you’ll be considering relocating permanently.

Areas to stay: All the central neighborhoods, such as Schwabing, Haidhausen, Maxvorstadt, and Isarvorstadt, have a broad selection of hotels and plenty of restaurants, cafes, and shops to choose from.

When to visit: There isn’t really a bad time to visit Munich, but many locals decamp for the nearby ski slopes in the later winter months. There’s a substantial influx of visitors every year during Oktoberfest too.

Getting around: Munich has a reliable public transport system, with trams, trains, and buses connecting most places within the inner city. Cycling is also a practical option with well-marked bike lanes throughout town.

8 a.m. Classic coffee: Kick things off with a flat white and a cinnamon-loaded Franzbrötchen from Munich roaster Man Versus Machine on Müllerstraße, one of the first independent shops to bring specialty coffee to the Bavarian capital. The insulated bottles and enamel cups featuring the brand’s illustrated crocodile logo are some of the best souvenirs in town.

9 a.m. Greek breakfast: Stroll over to Crete-inspired Café Onos, where the clean white and vibrant blue interior immediately transports you to a Greek island. Order the avocado toast with crumbly feta or a warm sesame ring filled with cream cheese and honey, along with a refreshing foamed-topped frappe. Owner Manolis Kyriakakis’s family produces the shop’s thyme honey and olive oil in their home village. Both are available to buy along with a small collection of ceramics, coffee beans, and some irresistible cookbooks.

10:30 a.m. Urban art: Not far away is the Museum of Urban and Contemporary Art, located in a former substation. Since bursting onto the scene in 2016, the space has showcased diverse international names, from Brooklyn-born Alex Katz to Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama. Most exhibitions can be found in the main building, but the connected Kunstbunker, found in an old air-raid shelter next door, recently had Banksy’s shredded “Girl without Balloon” on display. Fine dining restaurant Mural is also located in the museum.

12:30 p.m. An alpine-inspired lunch: Eat at Weinhaus Neuner, Munich’s oldest wine bar, which plays the part with moody dark wood paneling, cast-iron lamps, and a restored cross-vaulted ceiling. Start with the smoked eel with potato and lamb’s lettuce salad, followed by the braised veal cheeks with Bohemian dumplings or the veal schnitzel with crispy pan-fried potatoes and cranberry-horseradish sauce. Of course, ask about the wines.

2 p.m. Old town: Walk off lunch by venturing into Munich’s old town, passing the famous Frauenkirche, whose domed towers are a symbol of the city; central square Marienplatz, home to the neo-Gothic town hall; and the expansive Residenz, the former seat of Bavarian dukes and kings. Drop into newly opened comic book store Splendid Comics right on the square, or admire the wooden kitchen utensils and hand-carved chess boards at Holz-Leute, a business that dates back to 1873. End at open-air food market Viktualienmarkt for a grapefruit-infused kombucha from First 8 Kombucha or a caffeine hit from third-wave coffee shop Sweet Spot. Need some midafternoon dessert? Try the sticky vanilla and rum-soaked canelé or a slice of flambeed cheesecake from micro-patisserie Marktpatisserie Lea Zapf, also in the market.

5 p.m. Downtime: Time to pop back to your hotel for a quick break and an outfit change before dinner.

7 p.m. Aperitivo: Spend your evening in the fashionable Glockenbach quarter, home to many of the city’s most happening bars and restaurants. Start with a glass of Franconian rosé at Weinbar Garbo, run by the duo behind hugely successful Austrian restaurant Gasthaus Waltz. The impressive wine collection showcases several German and Austrian producers such as Rosi Schuster, Eva Fricke, and Simon Haag; pair your choice with simple savory snacks like Viennese ham with horseradish and pickles.

8 p.m. Wine and dine: Reserve a table at understated Avin for a concise menu of sharing plates paired with wines selected by sommelier Lukas Stepper. The menu changes regularly, but recent highlights include pointed cabbage with miso butter and hazelnuts, as well as pumpkin with peanut mayonnaise and buttermilk. Grab a table on the street outside or settle into the sumptuous interior where upholstered bar stools complement the warm wood features. Look out for the events organized with different wine producers.

10 p.m. Nightcap: End the night with a matcha martini or French 75 prepared by the expert staff at the new kid on the already crowded block, Herr Bartels. The easygoing bar has an elevated industrial design with soft lighting and custom illustrations — recognizable from sister businesses Frau Bartels and Madam Anna Ekke — scribbled on blackboards.

DAY 2: Alternative Munich

10 a.m. Late start: A traditional Bavarian breakfast is a must for anyone visiting the city and they don’t come much better than the one at Gaststätte Großmarkthalle. Hidden away in the city’s meatpacking district, this well-trodden establishment serves salty soft pretzels, smooth wheat beer, and weißwürste (white sausages) made in the cellar below the restaurant.

12 p.m. Boat on a bridge: Next, walk over to Alte Utting, a boat repurposed as a nightclub and event space, that sits on a disused bridge. Explore everything from the deck to the engine room, and see what events are on. The Bavarian curling (eisstockschießen) rink, outfitted with an organic mulled wine stand, is a popular choice in winter. Disembark to explore the rest of this quirky part of town, known for its innovative spaces and temporary projects. At Bahnwärter Thiel, shipping containers and decommissioned train carriages host small businesses, and graffiti artists make the most of relaxed rules.

1 p.m. Coffee and sandwiches: When hunger strikes, make a detour to female-powered cafe Mari, found in an old butcher’s shop. Or go on a sandwich run to Scandi-inspired Bageri on Adlzreiterstraße, where appetizing combos are served on olive oil-soaked focaccia or fresh bread made with rye, spelt, and sunflower seeds.

2 p.m. Geek out: Spend the afternoon at the Deutsches Museum, one of the largest science and technology museums in the world. Founded in 1903, the impressive structure, complete with a weather station, sits on a small island once used to store wood and coal. There are around 20 major exhibition departments to choose from.

5 p.m. Riverside bar: Make your way along the eastern bank of the river, stopping for a drink at cozy Boazn, tucked away in a former public restroom next to the Ludwigsbrücke bridge. Try the aromatic Gspusi wheat beer or refreshing Spatzerl shandy.

7 p.m. Hot tables: Run by Luis Fernando Gonzalez Cortes and his business partner Niklas Petschko, Taqueria con Salsa sees regular lines, but the tangy house-made salsas, eye-watering Mexican chiles, and soft corn tortillas are well worth the wait. Then pop across the street to artisanal ice cream shop True & 12, just over the road, for peach-basil sorbet or other seasonal scoops. Alternatively, reserve a table at Franz in Sendling for an evening of French-inspired small plates and curated wines. The bread comes with different butters produced in the Bavarian Forest.

10 p.m. Late-night drinks: Spend the remainder of your evening in Westend, a district that’s fast evolving (up-and-coming to some, gentrified to others). Options here include intimate cocktail bar Heir Beverage House, where you should sample the Tucan made with German brandy, or Wirtshaus Eder, where freshly tapped lager and dark beer comes from popular craft brewer Tilman Ludwig.

DAY 3: Neighborhood mooching

8 a.m. Caffeinate: Suuapinga has slowly but surely expanded over the last few years, from a single location in Schwabing to shops in most of Munich’s hip neighborhoods. Start with a cappuccino at the brand’s first space on Herzogstraße, combined with a cinnamon roll or cardamom bun baked at the brand’s central bakery. Or take your coffee to go, and stop by Julius Brantner Brothandwerk on Nordendstraße for Swabiansourdough pretzels looped by hand.

10 a.m. Park life: With carbs secured, head east towards Englischer Garten, Munich’s largest park. In winter, inclines are used for sledding, and in summer, the lawns fill with volleyball nets and picnic blankets. Walk around the lake, stop in a beer garden (Biergarten am Chinesischer Turm is the easiest to reach), and check out the views from the Monopteros, a Greek-style temple commissioned by King Ludwig I.

12:30 p.m. Laid-back lunch: Head back out of the park and into the heart of the student district Maxvorstadt for lunch. Here you’ll find eclectic bookshops, contemporary fashion stores, and plenty of places serving quick eats. Grab a table at Umi Udon and Sandos for Japanese katsu and coleslaw sandwiches served on fluffy milk bread or handmade thick-cut noodles served chilled, in broth, or in a carbonara-style dish with egg yolk, bacon, and grated Parmesan.

2 p.m. Museums: The student district is also where you’ll find a significant number of Munich’s museums, clustered together in an area known as the Kunstareal. Head to the Munich Documentation Centre for the History of National Socialism to learn more about an important chapter in the city’s history, or take in the European masterpieces at the Alte Pinakothek, where the collection of paintings spans five centuries.

5 p.m. Pre-dinner drinks: A short distance from the museums, natural wine bar Zero Dosage offers the ideal spot for a pre-dinner drink. The wine list includes a constantly changing selection of open bottles, as well as the bar’s own vermouth, made in small batches with organic herbs, spices, and fruit.

7 p.m. Final night dinner: Randale, a popular newcomer in Lehel, is a great way to experience how Munich’s food scene is evolving. Young chefs Stefan Retzer and Adrian Krieg have created a relaxed fine dining experience with five courses focused on the seasons. Recent highlights include black salsify with kimchi and apricot, and beef with radicchio trevisano and celery. It’s a perfect dinner to end your trip to this ever-surprising city.